A taste of Abruzzo

Part I of a memorable food & wine journey

Bonjour and happy Friday!

After three days of ample Italian sunshine, I am back in the Netherlands where summer has definitely made way for autumn with gray skies and rain (a good thing). As mentioned in my previous newsletter, today’s edition would focus on my trip to Abruzzo, but honestly, a single post would never do it justice. During the time span of a mere 48 hours, Abruzzo has charmed me with its authentic local cuisine, elegant wines, landscapes and warmth. The trip may have been short, but the impressions were vast. Today’s brief introduction will be the first of several longer posts where I will take you with me on a virtual journey, retracing the steps of our itinerary and hopefully enticing you along the way.

A new region to explore
Though professionally my focus is France, my scope of interest doesn’t end at the borders of the hexagon. In fact, Italian wines and gastronomy regularly appear at our table. So when Studio Cru invited me to visit Abruzzo and discover the region’s food and wines of Cantina Tollo a few months ago, I immediately knew this wasn’t an opportunity I should pass up. I had been approached by the communication agency last February when they invited me to take part in a Zoom tasting for Madrevite wines. A few months later, they asked me to sample a selection of Castello di Cigognola and Bellenda wines. All three experiences were thoroughly enjoyable, both in product and communication. My expectations for the trip were therefore pretty high!

Cantina Tollo

The main purpose of the trip was to learn more about Cantina Tollo, the Abruzzo’s award-winning wine cooperative, which currently counts 700 associated grape growers who make well-structured wines from native grape varieties such as Montepulciano, Trebbiano, Pecorino, Passerina and Cococciola as well as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio. In 1960, when Cantina Tollo set roots in the province of Chieti, younger generations were leaving the countryside in search of better opportunities. Over the years, Cantina Tollo succeeded in bringing this exodus to a halt by providing a source of income for many locals. Joined by Feudo Antico (focusing on small, local appellation Tullum DOCG) in 2004 and Auramadre (which makes organic wine) in 2019, the wine cooperative currently stretches out over 2,700 hectares and produces some 14 million bottles of wine per year. Today, Cantina Tollo is one of the leading businesses in the Italian wine industry.

Regional flavor
Besides vineyard visits and tastings, I also had the chance to dine at Michelin-starred restaurant Villa Maiella and Trabocco Pesce Palombo (trabocchi are wooden fishing huts built on platforms and scattered along the Trabocchi Coast, some of which have been converted to restaurants). Both dining experiences were not only a fine opportunity to see how Cantina Tollo’s wines seamlessly pair with the regional fare, but also magical, each in their own unique way. 
Below, an image of a trabocco — an impressive structure so typical of this region!

On the last day, we visited the Accademia della Ventricina, where Luigi Di Lello artisanally makes cured meats. I may have recently stopped eating meat (actually, I’m mostly vegan), but let it suffice to say that 1) as a culinary journalist, I will always remain interested in seeing how food is produced, 2) I have zero intention of indoctrinating others with my beliefs, and 3) I will always support producers who respect the planet’s resources. Both Luigi and his son Robertino are true ambassadors for an authentic product made with passion and know-how. Though I did not taste their salumi — they were gracious enough to prepare a vegetarian meal for me, with one of the most delicious salads I’ve ever had! — I did appreciate learning about its production.

About Abruzzo
Nestled between the peaks of the Apennines to the east and the placid, crystal-blue waters of the Adriatic Sea to the west, the Abruzzo region in central Italy may not top the list of the country’s most visited destinations, yet it should definitely be on the travel radar of food-and-wine lovers, not to mention those who crave space to reconnect with nature. Abruzzo can rightfully be called the green lung of the Mediterranean and is one of the greenest areas in Europe. This land of unspoilt nature boasts one regional park, three national parks and no less than 30 nature reserves, accounting for half of its surface. More than an excellent summer destination with 133 kilometers of coastline and placid sea, the Appennine’s 700 kilometers of slopes also make it a great choice for a skiing holiday. Driving through Abruzzo, you’ll pass lush vineyards and olive groves as well as enchanting hilltop villages full of folklore. From seafood to saffron and from rustic cheeses to artisanal salumi, there’s plenty to feast on, too. And thanks to Cantina Tollo, there’s no shortage of excellent vinos to complement the region’s rich and varied cuisine.
In the image below, the city of Ortona in the province of Chieti, where we stayed during the trip.

In the next post, I’ll tell you about dinner at Villa Maiella with Cantina Tollo’s sales and marketing director Andrea Di Fabio (below), the visits to Cantina Tollo’s vineyards and an exciting vertical wine tasting for Cagiòlo with winemaker Riccardo Brighigna. 

Bon week-end!

Images courtesy of: Cantina Tollo and Studio Cru