In his 1894 novel, Il Trionfo della Morte (The Triumph of Death), set in his native Abruzzo, Gabriele d’Annunzio describes the view from a hilltop villa in San Vito Chietino, mentioning that: “... above a group of rocks, a trabocco stretched out, a strange fishing machine, all made up of boards and beams, similar to a colossal spider.”
Jutting into the open sea, these impressive structures known as trabocchi (plural) are indeed somewhat reminiscent of giant insects when viewed from afar as you make your way along the coastline of the eponymous Trabocchi Coast. Though some trace their origins to the Phoenicians and others to the 18th century, what we know with certainty is that the trabocchi once helped sustain many families. Today, however, the quaint, wooden huts have taken on a new role as either tourist attraction or restaurant.
Arriving at Pesce Palombo, just as evening began to descend upon Fossacesia’s postcard-pretty shoreline, was absolutely enchanting.
The sun had cast an ochre glow over the somewhat cloudy skies and the tranquil waters glistened below our feet as we made our way across the narrow, wooden bridge that led to the restaurant.
Once inside, I couldn’t help but think how memorable it would be to dine here under the moonlight. From the spectacular views to the laid-back elegance of the decor, the setting couldn’t have been any more intimate or romantic – like a scene straight out of a movie.
Obviously known for its exceptionally fresh seafood, I was happy to see that Pesce Palombo’s vegetarian dishes are just as vibrant and full of taste. Every bite of the vegetable tempura that opened the meal was crisp yet succulent and perfectly salted. Served with Cantina Tollo’s zesty Pecorino Spumante Brut, it was a promising start to a multi-course feast that included honey-sweet cherry tomatoes marinated in peppery olive oil kissed by a touch of balsamic and an utterly fragrant pasta e ceci.
Leaving Pesce Palombo, I realized it hadn’t even been 36 hours since my arrival in Abruzzo, but this experience sealed the deal – the region had charmed its way into my heart.
The next (and final) day started with a visit to the Accademia della Ventricina, where Luigi Di Lello has been artisanally producing cured meats since 1993. As we made our way to his salumeria in the town of Scerni in southern Abruzzo, nearly at the border with Molise, we drove past vast and verdant panoramas of vineyards and olive groves. I was trying to take in as much of the scenery as possible, letting it seep into my memory, but also trying to capture it on film for the video shown in this post.
I recently stopped eating meat (the promised post outlining the why and how will be published next week), but my choice does not change the fact that I am a culinary journalist who will always be interested in seeing how food is produced. Additionally, I will always support producers who use the planet’s resources with respect. Though I have no intention of preaching about what you should and shouldn’t eat, I do believe we should be informed about the origins of our food (animal or plant).
Luigi and his son Robertino humbly represent an authentic product made with passion and know-how. They are intent on protecting and preserving their ventricina, a salume only made in 26 surrounding municipalities. Produced between September and April with premium cuts of black pigs that were raised in the open air, the thick, rustic sausage is said to have the taste of both prosciutto and salami. Only salt, pepper and fennel flower are added, and the ventricina (the name is derived from the word ‘ventre’ or ‘belly’) is aged for a minimum of eight to nine months.
Though I did not taste their ventricina or other products (they were gracious enough to prepare a vegetarian meal for me with one of the most delicious and freshest salads I’ve ever had!), I did appreciate learning about the production.
After the informative visit, we sat down to our final meal in Abruzzo, which highlighted a selection of the Accademia della Ventricina’s products and opened with Cantina Tollo’s Cococciola Spumante Extra Dry (a delicate bubble with toasty notes and citrussy nuances). I especially enjoyed the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, a salmon-colored rosé (made with Montepulciano grapes) with lively aromas of red fruits, delicate floral notes and pleasant minerality.
It is part of a line of five organic/vegan wines that honor the surrounding environment and biodiversity. I love the butterfly pencil drawing indicating climate change. Something we should all be very conscious about.
Did I mention that Abruzzo is the green lung of the Mediterranean and one of the greenest areas in Europe? The food, the wines and the sense of space – there’s so much to love about this exceptional region!
Images: Paola Westbeek & Cantina Tollo
Video: Hans Westbeek
A taste of Abruzzo