A Wine Journey to the Colli Berici
Last week, I had the privilege of immersing myself in the enchanting Colli Berici region, a hilly landscape in the province of Vicenza, Italy. The experience was made all the richer by the company of five fellow wine journalists, each of us eager to discover this lesser-known DOC. Organized by Studio Cru, our four-day journey was an exploration of not just the wines but the people, history and culture that make the Colli Berici so unique. With visits to seven wineries, intimate dinners with producers and a cultural detour to the city of Vicenza, the trip was a vivid reminder of the deep connection between land and legacy.
Among the many memorable encounters, my time with Stefano Inama and his son Luca from the Inama family left a lasting impression. For over fifty years, the Inama family has been a cornerstone of winemaking in the region, and their passion was palpable in every glass we sampled and in the way Stefano explained his philosophy to us. Similarly, Alessandra Piovene Porto Godi and Emanuele Piovene Porto Godi wove tales of their family’s winemaking history that stretches back to the 16th century, grounding us in the rich heritage of the Colli Berici. At Del Rèbene, perched 300 meters above sea level, we sampled wines with Francesco Castegnaro and Claudia Serblin, who introduced us to their organic approach, a philosophy they’ve embraced since 2006. Their wines, alongside their exquisite olive oils, spoke of a commitment to sustainability and quality. Of course, this trip wouldn’t have been complete without the insights of Giovanni Ponchia, the director of the Consorzio Colli Berici e Vicenza, whose guidance throughout the journey provided invaluable context. And it was during our first evening, at one of the region’s best pizzerias, that I had the pleasure of meeting Silvio Dani, the consortium’s president, whose hospitality set the tone for the days ahead.
The Colli Berici is a region defined by its terroir, where 70% of the vineyards are dedicated to red grape varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon (22%), Merlot (20%) and Cabernet Franc (11%) dominate, but it is the Tai Rosso, the region’s flagship grape, that truly captures the Colli Berici’s essence. Recently, Carmenère has also made its mark, now accounting for 5% of the production. The diversity of soils—marly limestone, calcareous conglomerates, red clays and basaltic rocks of volcanic origin—contributes to the complexity and structure of the wines, making them a reflection of the land’s character. Truly, they are wines with a real sense of place. Though the Veneto is known for its heavy rains, the Colli Berici has a much drier climate, with less than half the rainfall. In total, the Colli Berici encompasses roughly 650 hectares.
As I recall just some of the highlights of these four days (there were many, so choosing will be difficult!), I find myself eager to share not only the exceptional wines but also the stories of the people who pour their lives into making every vintage possible. From indigenous grape varietals like Tai Rosso and Garganega to the evolving landscape of organic winemaking, the Colli Berici is a region that deserves more than just a passing glance—it beckons to be understood, appreciated and savored.
Day One: A warm welcome to Colli Berici
My journey to the Colli Berici began with a familiar sense of anticipation as I touched down at Venice Airport, where Elena from Studio Cru awaited my arrival. Having met Elena previously during a memorable trip to Maremma in southern Tuscany last year, it was a pleasure to reconnect with her. Our shared enthusiasm for not only wine, but also gastronomy made her an ideal companion for the days ahead. I wasn’t the only one among our small group of wine journalists who had traveled together before, adding a sense of camaraderie to the start of this adventure.
Our first destination was the headquarters of the Consorzio Colli Berici e Vicenza in Lonigo, just over an hour west of the airport. Here, we were greeted by Giovanni Ponchia, the consortium’s director, who welcomed us with a light lunch and a detailed introduction to the region and its wines.
This initial meeting was an opportunity to learn about the terroir and history of Colli Berici, with a particular focus on two indigenous grape varieties I knew little about: Garganega and Tai Rosso. Garganega, one of the most ancient white varietals of the Veneto region, which forms the backbone of the white wines, finds its primary home here (90%), though it is also known as Grecanico in Sicily. On the other hand, Tai Rosso, the flagship red varietal, has a more complex history. Once referred to as Tocai Rosso, it is related to Cannonau from Sardinia, Grenache from France and Garnacha from Spain but expresses itself in a distinctly different (more vivacious!) way in the Colli Berici.
Tai Rosso, which likely arrived in the region from the Côtes du Rhône in the 14th century, is known for its subtle nose with fresh raspberry aromas, hints of rose and a lively acidity on the palate. Best enjoyed slightly chilled at 14-15°C, this rustic wine pairs beautifully with rich, fatty dishes like the regional Baccalà alla Vicentina, or for a plant-based alternative, a wild mushroom risotto.
The first Tai Rosso sampled during the lunch was from Dal Maso, a winery also on our itinerary. A brilliant (pale, almost rosé-like) garnet-red and very drinkable wine with hints of raspberry and cherry, a light, refreshing finish and a touch of salinity—a characteristic of the region’s wines, Giovanni explained.
From Lonigo, we made our way to the first winery of the trip, Cavazza, where we met Elisa and Mattia Cavazza, whose family has been producing wine for nearly a century. We sampled their classic Tai Rosso from the 2023 vintage—quite different from the first. “This is the Tai Rosso as it should be,” Elisa pointed out. “If you talk with an older generation, this is Tai Rosso for them. A very light, red wine, perfect for summer.” With a bright ruby-red hue, raspberry notes and a medium-bodied palate with a pleasant acidity, the wine is low in tannins and alcohol (12.5%). It’s the kind of wine that Elisa’s father would drink daily; an approachable and easy-going wine perfectly suited to the relaxed style that many people seek today.
The tasting continued with the Cavazza’s Tenuta Cicogna Selection (the name ‘Cicogna’ came from a noble family from Venice, Elisa explained), including a standout Cabernet Sauvignon from 2020. This wine revealed concentrated red berry aromas and spicy notes on the nose, with an ample palate featuring toasty nuances, vanilla and silky tannins. The wine’s rich and complex character reminded me of a dish I had paired it with a few years ago after sampling it during a tasting with Studio Cru—a beetroot and wild mushroom Wellington served with balsamic gravy and roasted root vegetables.
After a brief respite at our hotel in Lonigo to reflect on the afternoon’s experiences, we concluded our first day with dinner at the hotel’s pizzeria, Alle Acque, reputed to be one of the best in the region. The vegetable pizza I sampled was indeed delicious, but the true highlight of the evening was the opportunity to sit next to Silvio Dani, the consortium’s president. Silvio proved to be an exceptional ambassador for the Colli Berici, sharing his insights into the region’s touristic merits and stunning landscapes, which are perfect for scenic trips on foot or by bike. He also touched on the rich architectural heritage, including the influence of the renowned Renaissance architect Palladio, whose works are scattered throughout the area.
As the evening drew to a close, I found myself eagerly anticipating the next day’s journey, which would take us to three more wineries. The day had already set a high bar with its introduction to the region’s wine and culture, and I looked forward to uncovering more of the Colli Berici’s hidden treasures.
Day Two: Discovering the heights and depths of Colli Berici
Once again, day two was packed with experiences that highlighted the beauty and diversity of the Colli Berici. I’ll focus on some of the standout moments from our visits to three remarkable wineries.
The day began with a steep trip up the narrow, winding roads leading to the hamlet of Zovencedo, where we found Azienda Agricola Del Rèbene. As we arrived at this serene estate, I felt a sense of calm, as though we had left the world behind and entered a place of peace and natural beauty. Tucked away in the heart of the Berici Hills, Del Rèbene spans 23 hectares and sits 300 meters above sea level, making it one of the highest vineyards in the Colli Berici.
Francesco Castegnaro, a former lawyer, and his wife, Claudia Serblin, have dedicated themselves to tending five hectares of vines and three hectares of olive trees in a land blessed with a Mediterranean microclimate. Francesco discovered this hidden gem during a bike trip in 1990, when he stumbled upon the ruins of a 15th-century building that had been abandoned after World War II. “It was very difficult for Francesco to get here as the road was fully overgrown,” Claudia recalls. “But when he saw the uncultivated vineyards and ancient terraces, he knew he had found something special.” At just 26 years old, Francesco fell in love with the place, making it his mission to restore the land and revive the vineyards. Claudia points to the outdoor oven, one of the best-preserved structures Francesco discovered. “People who lived here until the Second World War baked bread once a week in this oven,” she explains.
The steep, south-facing slopes of Del Rèbene, composed of red clay soils with marine limestone and some of volcanic origins, are home to Tai Rosso, Carmenère and international varieties like Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The vines are cultivated organically/biodynamically, with a focus on natural winemaking methods that preserve the purity of the terroir.
After a stroll through the vineyards and olive groves, we returned to the farmhouse terrace for a wine tasting. The first wine we sampled was the Vrisch, a sparkling white made from the Garganega grape.
Its sunny yellow color and delicate aromas of white flowers, stone fruit, citrus and almond were a delightful treat after our walk in the heat. We also explored their red wines, including a standout Carmenère 2019, aged in cement for 18 months. With a low alcohol content (12.5%), this wine revealed delicate floral notes, red fruits, herbaceous hints and a touch of balsamic, while the palate offered delicate tannins and a peppery finish.
Beyond wine, Del Rèbene also produces exquisite olive oils, which we also had the chance to taste. They offer three types: a blend of five different olives, an oil made exclusively from Rasara and another from Coratina. The crisp Oro blend, with its slightly citrusy notes, had me longing for a simple plate of heirloom tomatoes, a sprinkle of sea salt flakes and a loaf of fresh bread—perfect companions for an afternoon on the terrace of this idyllic estate. But with more to see, we had to move on.
Another highlight of the day was our visit to Piovene Porto Godi, located in Toara di Villaga, near Vicenza. Here, we met siblings Alessandra and Emanuele, who produce approximately 120,000 bottles per year, along with some wine in bulk. Their family winery cultivates both whites (Sauvignon, Pinot Blanc and Garganega) and reds (Tai Rosso, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot), with a commitment to vinifying only the grapes grown on their estate.
We began our tasting with the Pinot Bianco Polveriera 2023, a wine with delicate floral aromas, bright citrus notes and a crisp, lively acidity—ideal as an aperitif or paired with light dishes like pasta salads or a creamy vegetable terrine.
From the reds, the Merlot Fra i Broli 2020 stood out, aged in oak for 12 months, bursting with ripe cherry, spices, pepper, vanilla and hints of mocha, with velvety tannins that made it a joy to drink. We also tried the Tai Rosso Thovara 2021, aged 15-18 months in French oak tonneaux. This wine was generous with dark cherries, forest fruits, plum and coffee notes, showing a bold yet fresh character that made it exceptionally drinkable.
Although Tai Rosso is traditionally enjoyed young, Alessandra explained how their father, with the help of an oenologist, began experimenting with aging the grape in the early 2000s. The result was so promising that other wineries have since adopted this approach, demonstrating a new dimension to this iconic variety.
The day concluded with a dinner in the company of Claudia, Alessandra and Emanuele, offering another opportunity to deepen our connection with the winemakers. In a fun twist, I learned that both Emanuele and Alessandra had spent time in Hoboken, New Jersey—a surprising connection that added a personal touch to our conversation.
These dinners were more than just a chance for some lovely conviviality; they were opportunities to truly get to know the people behind the wines, adding a new layer of meaning to the entire experience. Stay tuned for day three, where I’ll share one of the most thought-provoking and beautiful tastings I’ve ever had!