C’est l’heure de l’apéro!

French-style & sress-free hosting during the holidays

Though the French are not known to snack between meals, an exception is gladly made for l’heure de l’apéro, one of the country’s most cherished rituals and a perfect example of art de vivre. The apéro usually takes place when the workday draws to an end and friends and family eagerly gather for drinks, nibbles and pleasant conversation. It’s the ultimate way to ease into a relaxed evening or welcome the weekend, but come December, hosting an apéritif dînatoire (the apéro’s better-dressed cousin) is a stress-free alternative to dinner parties, which can be especially daunting at this time of year.

From restorative drink to convivial tradition
The origins of the apéro tradition can be traced back to the Greeks and Romans who were already starting their meals with wines sweetened with honey or infused with spices. The word ‘apéro’ is an abbreviation of ‘apéritif,’ derived from the Late Latin word ‘apertivus,’ meaning ‘that which opens.’

From the Middle Ages up until the mid-19th century, it was mainly the upper class who were serving drinks before meals (sweet wines blended with plants and herbs) to boost health, stimulate the appetite or ease digestion. When Joseph Dubonnet invented a medicinal drink spiked with quinine (a drug to treat malaria) in 1846, many did not take to its acidic taste. Dubonnet tweaked his concoction and soon enough, it became hugely popular. The pre-dinner tipple was losing its restorative value and well on its way to becoming a convivial tradition loved by everyone.

According to the Syndicat des Apéritifs à Croquer (an association of snack companies formed in 2015), roughly 90% of the French population indulges in the pleasures of an apéro at least once a week. Evening apéros can be taken at home within the family circle, usually before dinner at around six, but local cafés and wine bars are also common meeting places, especially among younger generations. Apéros can precede dinner parties or Sunday lunches. They can be spontaneously organized or planned in advance. There are no rules or stiff etiquette protocols to worry about. The most important thing is relishing the moment. Nevertheless, if you’re lucky enough to be invited by French friends to join in on their beloved cultural tradition, make sure you bring along a bottle of something delicious!

Apéro chez vous
Of course, there’s no need to wait for an invitation – you can easily adopt the art of the French apéro at home. It can be savored as a special weekend treat and is a fine antidote to those mid-week blues. An apéro is all about simplicity and does not require cooking. The drinks and snacks should not be so heavy that they spoil the appetite. In France, popular apéro nibbles include chips, pretzels, mixed roasted nuts, crackers and delicate puff pastry snacks such as palmiers.

For something a little more special, opt for a (vegan) pâté slathered on baguette and served with crunchy cornichons or a jar of confit d’oignons. I really like the ‘Petit Pâté’ from the Vegetarische Slager (for those in the Netherlands). Marinated olives or sun-dried tomatoes and crudités with hummus, pesto (see my recipe!) or tapenade are also good choices.

Though there’s nothing stopping you from serving fromage (or vromage), keep in mind that cheese can be quite filling and that in France, it’s served as a separate course, before dessert.

When it comes to drinks, pastis is the most popular apéritif. The French drink approximately four hundred liters of the anise-flavored spirit annually, and it is often mixed with syrups to make trendy cocktails such as the perroquet (with mint syrup) the tomate (with grenadine syrup), the violet (with lavender syrup) and the rourou (with strawberry syrup). The kir, a specialty from Bourgogne traditionally made with one-third blackcurrant liqueur (crème de cassis) and two-thirds Aligoté wine, closely follows pastis on the list of favorite apéritifs. It can be prepared in myriad ways, for example, as a kir pêche (with peach liqueur), kir mûre (with blackberry liqueur), and as a sparkling kir royale with champagne or crémant. Vermouth, Campari, Lillet, Suze or even a gin-tonic are also great choices. For the latter, I highly recommend Gin XII. Made with a carefully selected blend of 12 aromatic botanicals such as thyme, rosemary, mint, sweet almond and eucalyptus, this elegant tipple captures Haute-Provence’s rich terroir with its warm, peppery notes of juniper berries harmoniously united with crisp, herbal flavors and delicate floral nuances.

If serving wine as an apéritif, opt for a glass of bubbly (make it extra special by adding a few frozen raspberries), white wine (the Unterebner 2021, a beautifully complex Pinot Grigio by Cantina Tramin — see my post — would be a great choice!), rosé or even a sweet wine as they often do in southwest France. Red wine is much too strong and best served with meals. Non-alcoholic drinks include sparkling water flavored with lemon, lime or fruit cordials.

Festive apéritif dînatoire
If you’re looking to host friends and family this holiday season but the idea of cooking a multi-course dinner sends your nerves into a frenzy, look no further than the apéritif dînatoire. More elaborate than an apéro, it only requires a little planning and has the added advantage that everything can be done well in advance, leaving you plenty of time to relax and enjoy the company of your guests.

An apéritif dînatoire is meant to be a meal on its own. Choose foods with a variety of textures and presentations. For an attractive planche, drape delicate slices of (vegan) charcuterie on a rustic wooden board, scatter with capers and drizzle with a fruity olive oil. On another board, serve a thick slice of terrine made from nuts and mushrooms with cranberry sauce and pistachios. Mini-quiches, squares of pissaladière, cubes of cake salé and canapés of rye bread with (vegan) cream cheese and marinated carrots are festive and delicious.

I love, love, love marinated carrots! You can also use them to make hearty bonbons which are great as a starter when served on a bed of mixed greens or arugula drizzled with olive oil. To make marinated carrots, simply slice the carrots into ribbons. Make the marinade by placing a mixture of vegetable bouillon, lots of smoked paprika, miso paste, a sheet of nori, a dash of soy sauce, a squirt of agave (or maple) syrup and plenty of black pepper in a pan. Simmer for 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the carrot ribbons. Close the pan and leave to rest for 5 minutes. Remove the nori sheet, pour the contents into a glass jam jar, cool and refrigerate. The carrots can be used the next day. To make the bonbons, drape a piece of clingfilm into an espresso cup. Drape a layer of carrot ribbons into the cup. Make balls from cashew cream cheese such as the Fermè flavored with chives by Casa del Fermentino. Read more here. Trim the carrots as needed and close the clingfilm to make a ball. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.

Sucettes salées (mini-lollipops) with (vegan) meatballs or balls of (vegan) cream cheese rolled in finely chopped herbs are fun to make and delicious. As are prunes filled with (vegan) cream cheese, wrapped in La Vie ‘bacon’ and grilled in a hot oven.

Another great idea is to make mini-parcels with puff pastry, cashew cream cheese and either onion confit or cranberry sauce.

For drinks, stick with sparkling wines. Not only are they refreshing and help balance the richness of some of the foods, but nothing says celebration more than the pop of a cork! 

Bon appétit & Joyeux Noël!