Diary entries of a Francophile
Don Camillo, Café de la Paix, and Armagnac ice cream
In a previous post, I mentioned sharing some diary entries I stumbled upon from a visit to France in 2011 and 2012. Below is the fifth entry. The previous one is here. Each entry will end with one or two recipes written back then. Some have appeared in my books. The recipes will be exclusively available to paid subscribers.
Bonne lecture!
It’s Tuesday, the sun is shining again, and I’m hoping that Kirstie will feel better today. The poor girl has been eaten alive by mosquitoes.
But let me tell you about our Monday. It was market day in Duras, and we strolled through the hustle and bustle, spotting familiar faces and stands: the egg lady with her dog full of fleas, the man selling olives and fragrant spices, the stand with roasted chickens dripping fat onto trays of potatoes, the friendly fruit lady, and the stand selling canned duck products.
After the market, we picked up some pastries at the bakery and had breakfast at Régine’s café with coffee for us and a strawberry juice for Kirstie. We sat there watching Duras come to life on a market morning.
(Side note: I found this beautiful image of Régine’s Café de la Paix years ago, and truly love it. I can’t quite read Chris’s last name, so apologies for the lack of credit. A lot has changed, and this café is now also restaurant.)
We had reserved a table at Restaurant Don Camillo for lunch, and it was such a pleasure to see the lovely owner Chantal again. That’s one of the things I always miss: the wonderful people of Duras. Lunch was three gorgeous pizzas and half a bottle of excellent local Merlot. Hans had the Texane—big enough for all of Texas!—with chicken wings, chorizo, ground beef, and a fried egg (yikes). I went for the Marinière: crème fraîche, salmon, mussels, and shrimp. Kirstie chose the Reine, with ham and mushrooms. We enjoyed it so much that we booked a table again for dinner. We’re going to return home ridiculously fat, but my goodness is it worth it!
In the afternoon, we took a trip to Saint-Émilion. It started out gray and rainy, but the sun broke through just in time. We quickly found the same shop where we’d bought our beloved Peyrat wines last year.
The girl who helped us was so knowledgeable—we tasted, chatted, and left with six beautiful bottles of Merlot. She was so pleased we’d returned that she even gifted us a small wine cooler bag. I told her we might be back again next year—I truly hope we will.
On the way back to Duras, we happened upon a roadside antique shop. I hadn’t even noticed it, but Hans made a quick turn and suddenly we were walking through a treasure trove of French history. These kinds of shops are my weakness: old paintings, carpets, beautiful tableware. More than half of my house comes from these shops, thrift shops, and vide-greniers.
We found a set of silver spoons and forks—exactly what we were missing to complete our French table setting. Hans also spotted a lovely round wall decoration, which the sweet owner gave us as a gift. She told us she visits the Netherlands often and even spoke a bit of Dutch. I left that shop absolutely beaming.
I should also confess—we (well, I should say, my husband!) did something rather naughty. On the drive back, he was unusually quiet. When I asked what he was thinking about, he grinned and admitted he was looking for a place to pull over. And then he did… to steal some wine grapes! I was mortified, though I admit it hilarious watching him dash back to the car with a mischievous smile and a painterly bunch of grapes in hand. He joked that we were wine criminals—what a laugh and what a memory!
Our day was rounded off with a quiet dip in the pool. Afterward, we returned to Don Camillo for another sumptuous meal. Highlights included the escargots and the café gourmand—a delightful plate of miniature French treats: crème brûlée, riz au lait, tarte aux pommes, and a sweet, tiny, yet perfect canelé.
We ended the night with a coffee and an Armagnac at Régine’s and a peaceful stroll through Duras, soaking in the atmosphere, before heading back to our house. PS: Régine’s son actually gave us our drinks on the house. How can you not love these people?
Kirstie and Hans lingered to admire the stars while I got ready for bed. This is truly the place to see stars at their most beautiful—clear, bold, and infinite.
This morning, we’ve woken to a mostly sunny and somewhat cooler day. Everyone is still fast asleep, so after I sign off here, I’ll quietly open the door and enjoy the newspaper in the gentle morning light. À bientôt!
Today’s recipe: Armagnac & Agen prune ice cream
Forget the usual rum-raisin variety, the flavor of this Armagnac-infused prune ice cream is definitely more elegant. Served with an espresso, it makes the perfect ending to your meal. Or serve a single boule over a warm moelleux au chocolat for a taste of southwest France.
