Discovering Cantina Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano
A wine journey to the Maremma region
Located on the Tuscan coast, the Maremma region stretches from the province of Pisa and Livorno to northern Lazio. The village of Scansano, established in the Middle Ages, crowns the hillsides, in the province of Grosseto. Back in the 3rd century BC, the Etruscans were already making wine in this unspoilt bucolic region blanketed by vineyards and olive trees. And it is here where we find Cantina Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano, which was founded in 1972.
Today, the cooperative counts 170 wine producers and 700 hectares of vineyards in and around Scansano. The most important appellation today, which obtained DOC status in 1978 (DOCG in 2007), is Morellino di Scansano. It is believed that the name ‘Morellino’ is the local nickname given to a clone of the Sangiovese grape, which comprises at least 85% of the wine. Morellino is usually produced in stainless-steel tanks, but the ‘Riserva’ is aged for a minimum of two years, of which at least one in French oak barriques.
The cooperative’s wines are divided into three ranges: I Classici, best representing the territory; Scantianum, focusing mostly on single grape varieties such as Trebbiano, Vermentino and Viognier; and their selection range, Le Vigne, which we tried during tasting last Tuesday with Studio Cru. Below, three of my favorites, along with a few vegetarian/vegan pairing suggestions.
Vin del Fattore Sangiovese Maremma Toscana DOC
Made primarily with Sangiovese, this medium-bodied wine opens with a bouquet of ripe red fruits, plum and juicy cherries followed by savory earthy notes. On the palate, the wine is fruit-forward with supple tannins making it an easy-drinker. I would recommend pairing it with a hearty grilled portobello burger topped with sun-dried tomato pesto, an aromatic risotto with porcini, stuffed aubergines with tomato quinoa or a tian with tomato and courgette.
Vermentino Maremma Toscana Doc Vigna Fiorini
With 85% Vermentino and 15% Viognier, this is a late-harvest wine, in this case meaning that the grapes are left to ripen on the plant for an additional three weeks enhancing the concentration of sugars and fruit aromas. On the nose, this sunny yellow wine has green apple, ripe golden plums, honey and elegant, floral nuances (courtesy of the Viognier) supported by herbaceous notes. The palate is refreshing with a zesty minerality and a long finish. Good pairings include Middle Eastern dishes such as a zingy tabbouleh salad and herbed falafel, finger foods like flatbread with hummus or Greek dolmades, spring vegetable tarts, gnocchi with pesto and artichokes stuffed with herbed breadcrumbs.
Vigna Benefizio Morellino di Scansano DOCG
Made with Sangiovese, this handsome wine (aged in French oak for six months) exhibits a nose of bold red fruits with aromatic hints of violet, subtle balsamic notes and a whisper of dark chocolate. The palate is well structured with fine, supple tannins and a pleasant freshness. Dishes with earthy flavors such as a Tuscan bean soup with kale, a roasted vegetable salad, a hachis parmentier made with lentils, tomato and smoked paprika topped with layer of potato and celeriac puree, or my gratin de poivrons (see recipe below).
Importers in the Netherlands:
Grandi Vini Ijsselvere 23, 3421 BV Oudewater Nederland
Van Ouwerkerk Pr. Margrietstraat 19, 4241 BA Arkel Nederland
Silletti Veldweg 6, 5321 JE Hedel Nederland
ANFORS, Amsterdam
Images 1 & 2: Cantina Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano
Gratin de poivrons
Serves 2
6 sweet peppers, (red, yellow and orange)
100g stoned kalamata olives, roughly chopped
small bunch of flat leaf parsley, chopped
25g breadcrumbs (made from stale bread)
2 tbsps grated (vegan) Parmesan cheese
Good olive oil
freshly-cracked pepper
Place your peppers on a baking sheet lined with baking paper and grill them under a 250°C grill for 20 minutes, flipping them over after 10 minutes. The skins should be charred in some places and the peppers soft. Place the hot peppers either in a large Ziploc bag or in a plastic bowl with a tightly fitting lid. Allow the peppers to rest for about 15 minutes. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Carefully peel off the skins, remove all the seeds and cut the peppers into strips. Mix the pepper strips with the chopped kalamata olives and parsley. Transfer the mixture to a small, round oven dish of approximately 18cm. Scatter the breadcrumbs and (vegan) Parmesan cheese over the dish and finish with a drizzle of olive oil and a grinding of fresh pepper. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until the crust is crisp and golden.