Discovering Tenuta Argentiera
A memorable Bolgheri wine experience
Situated just a stone’s throw from the sun-drenched shores of the Tyrrhenian Sea, in the renowned yet relatively young Bolgheri region, lies Tenuta Argentiera—an estate where the art of winemaking results in a beautiful blend of character, authentic viticultural expression, elegance and finesse. Argentiera’s celebrated wines demand to be savored slowly and with reverence, allowing every sip to delight the senses with its own unique story.
Before giving you a taste of what Argentiera has to offer, let’s take a quick look at the story of Bolgheri wines, or, more specifically, the story of the Super Tuscans. A story of innovation and rebellion, which I touched upon in my autumn wine column for Inside Rotterdam.
Originating in the second half of the 20th century, Super Tuscan wines emerged as a result of winemakers challenging the strict regulations imposed by the Italian wine classification system, the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC). During the 1960s and 1970s, these visionaries spearheaded a movement that defied conventional winemaking norms. Dissatisfied with the restrictions imposed by the DOC, which favored indigenous grape varieties and traditional winemaking methods, they sought to create wines that showcased the fullest potential of the region’s rich terroir. By using international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, and aging the wines in barrique, winemakers achieved wines with robust structures, intense flavors and unparalleled depth. Initially relegated to the humble classification of ‘vino da tavola’ (that’s right, ‘table wine’) and facing opposition and criticism from traditionalists, these innovative wines—dubbed ‘Super Tuscans’—gained recognition for their exceptional quality, complexity and aging potential.*
Their success on the international stage sparked a revolution in Tuscan winemaking.
In 1992, the Italian government created the Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) classification, providing winemakers with greater freedom to experiment while maintaining quality standards. Two years later, in 1994, the establishment of the two distinct designations, Bolgheri Rosso DOC and Bolgheri Superiore DOC, formally acknowledged and sanctioned the crafting of red wines from Bolgheri. (Whites and rosés were actually the first to receive DOC classification in 1983). Today, Bolgheri wines stand as icons of innovation and excellence, representing the marriage of tradition and modernity in winemaking. Their journey from rebellious outliers to celebrated treasures mirrors the evolution of the Tuscan wine landscape and continues to inspire wine lovers around the world.
And it is at the southernmost edge of Bolgheri, where the gentle and cooling caress of the Tyrrhenian Sea meets the vine-clad hills, that we find Tenuta Argentiera, one of the country’s most stunning wine estates. Founded in 1999 by the Fratini family on ancient Etruscan silver mining grounds from which the estate draws its name (‘argento’ means silver), Argentiera’s vineyards are the closest to the coast and highest in altitude. Since 2016, the stewardship of this illustrious estate has been entrusted to Austrian entrepreneur Stanislau Turnauer, who continues to uphold its legacy of excellence.
Located in the municipality of Castagneto Carducci, Argentiera’s vineyards are meticulously cultivated across four distinct sub-zones, each bearing its own narrative and producing wines of unique character.
Argentiera:
The largest expanse, encompassing 46 hectares and perched at one of Bolgheri’s highest elevations (between 205 and 144m asl), boasts soils that consist of marl and shale with intercalation of sandstone and siliceous rocks. Here, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah thrive. This is the cradle of the estate’s iconic flagship wine, the DOC Bolgheri Superiore (the first vintage was 2003).
Poggio Ai Ginepri:
This 30-hectare parcel (named ‘Juniper Hill) located about one kilometer from the coast, has red sand soils infused with iron, nurturing Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Vermentino.
Villa Donoratico:
Embracing 15 hectares in the northern reaches of the estate, this parcel, named after the village of Donoratico, is planted with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot on soils rich with continental sands and flysch.
Ventaglio:
An ode to precision winemaking, this parcel, situated at 120 meters above sea level, encompasses 1.5 hectares of vineyards surrounding a majestic holm oak. Cabernet Franc finds its purest expression here, yielding the estate’s first single-vineyard wine.
As I embarked on a tasting journey with Tenuta Argentiera, Studio Cru and a group of fellow wine journalists, I found myself captivated by the harmonious interplay of tradition and innovation, each vintage offering a glimpse into Argentiera’s winemaking prowess.
Some tasting notes:
Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2020 & 2021
Merlot (48%), Cabernet Sauvignon (45%) and Cabernet Franc (7%), aged 14-16 months in French oak.
On the nose, ripe forest fruits and jammy plum aromas interlace with nuances of warm baking spices giving way to a whisper of balsamic richness and a dash of black pepper. On the palate, the fully-integrated tannins are supple and oozing finesse. There’s a captivating but very well-balanced interplay between the concentrated fruit sweetness and savory elements, with dark chocolate and a touch of tobacco adding complexity. The wine’s vibrant acidity lends freshness and vitality, carrying the flavors through to an endless and very memorable finish.
We tried the 2020 and 2021 vintages, with the ‘21 exhibiting a somewhat richer, bolder and more vibrant profile. Definitely some great aging potential here and a stellar representation of the region’s terroir.
Pairing: Plant-based dishes need to have plenty of body and depth of flavor in order to do justice to this phenomenal wine. I served it with a black truffle risotto (see video) crowned with a plant-based ‘steak,’ finished with braised onions and a velvety, deliciously aromatic pepper and tarragon-cream sauce. A handful of arugula complemented the dish with a fresh, herbal touch.
Villa Donoratico Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2021
Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Merlot (30%), Cabernet Franc (15%) and Petit Verdot (10%), aged 12 months in French and Austrian 500-liter tonneaux, allowing slower oxygenation and retaining more of the fruit and finesse.
A solid and complex wine with concentrated red fruit, black cherries and earthy aromas, followed by Mediterranean herbal notes, mocha and a dash of licorice. The palate is generous, with beautiful textural depth and round, elegant tannins.
Scenario Bolgheri Bianco DOC 2022
A primeur, which we were lucky enough to taste, and a successful research project that spanned a few years, attesting to Argentiera’s innovative spirit and Vermentino’s versatility. “We wanted to create a modern version of an age-worthy white wine that would retain its freshness,” explained winemaker Nicolò Carrara. Stone fruit, lime zest and elegant floral tones with a lovely, textured minerality. Roughly 3,000 bottles are set to be released this September
Once again, many thanks to Studio Cru for beautifully broadening my wine tasting horizons with head-turning estates such as Tenuta Argentiera.
*The advent of the Super Tuscans can be traced back to the release of the Sassicaia 1968 vintage (introduced in 1972), a groundbreaking Bordeaux-style blend crafted by Bolgehri pioneer Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, who was the first to begin experimenting with planting French grapes in the 1940s.