Inspiration: An interview with Kayte Stennett

Expat in Aix-en-Provence

The sun-drenched southern region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur is a golden land of plenty that entices the senses with spectacular landscapes and sweet aromas. When it comes to desserts, the tarte tropézienne is a must-try. Consisting of a brioche cake filled with vanilla cream and topped with pearl sugar, it was first made in Saint-Tropez in 1955 by Polish baker Alexandre Micka. The cake was served on the set of the movie Et Dieu… créa la femme, starring Brigitte Bardot, who took a special liking to it and suggested it be named after the glamorous town. 

Should you be in the mood for a more delicate end to your meal, try calissons, the pride of Aix-en-Provence. The yellow and white, almond-shaped sweets are made from a paste of crushed candied melons and blanched ground almonds. 

Fresh fruit, of course, is not a bad option either. The region is famous for its succulent Solliès figs, Muscat du Ventoux grapes and Cavaillon melons. 

If you’re considering permanently settling in Provence or spending the winter there, bear in mind that although the region is the warmest and sunniest in France, mistral winds are quite common during the season and can be unforgivingly harsh, causing temperatures to quickly plummet. That certainly didn’t stop Vincent van Gogh from escaping to Arles in February 1888, however! Though he often complained about the “infuriating nuisance of the constant mistral” in letters to his brother Theo, he also wrote, “what a compensation, when there’s a day with no wind. What intensity of colours, what pure air, what serene vibrancy.”

I think Kayte Stennett, who lives in Aix-en-Provence, would wholeheartedly agree! Let’s meet her!

Where are you originally from and what were you doing before you decided to move to France?

I originally hail from Cheltenham, England – a small town known as the center of The Cotswolds and also for The Gold Cup horse racing. I am proud to be a woman working in a STEM field, spending much of my career working in the UK Nuclear Energy sector.  

When did you move?

I moved to the South of France in 2018, so I am now in my fifth year of living here and am hoping to apply for my French Passport soon, as I intend to stay permanently! I lived in the Provencal countryside at first before settling in the town of Aix-en-Provence and have been lucky enough to explore quite a bit of the Luberon, the Côte D’Azur and Côte Bleue. 

What are you doing now?

I currently live in the center of Aix-en-Provence and work nearby at ITER, an international energy project to build an experimental Nuclear Fusion Reactor which is based here in the south of France.

What attracted you to Aix-en-Provence?

I was attracted to Aix by its obvious charm and beauty and also by its hustle and bustle – I was newly single when I first moved and was looking for a social scene to make connections and meet people. Aix stays busy with plenty to do even in the winter months when many of the smaller provencal villages shut up and become ghost towns.

Describe the town?

Aix is a very picturesque ville, referred to as the town of a thousand fountains because there are pretty fountains tinkling on almost every corner. Winding narrow streets lead to large squares which are engulfed in the mornings by market stalls laden with local produce and later in the day by café tables where you can sit elbow-to-elbow nursing a coffee or glass of rosé.

Aix has been referred to as the 21st arrondissement of Paris, partly because it feels like a corner of St. Germain (on a sunny day), but also due to the numerous Parisians with second homes who are often visiting, especially in summer. As the birthplace of Cézanne, Aix is understandably well rooted in the arts with theater, art galleries, cinemas and regular exhibitions, including the yearly Arts Festival of Opera, ballet, and classical concerts. Cézanne’s last art studio and family home are based here with the source of his inspiration clearly evident in the surrounding landscape including the imposing Mont St. Victoire.  

Are the locals welcoming?

Aix is quite international with a big expat community and lots of internationally minded French natives, so it has a cosmopolitan feel. My partner and I have recently taken over an expats oriented meetup group, and there are also Facebook groups and lots of other meetups for étrangers that really build a sense of community. Personally, I have found locals to be very friendly, especially when you are here out of season and start to get to know the cafés, restaurants and shops. The longer you stay in Aix, the more it feels like a village. It is very family-friendly, and we are always bumping into our friends in the town center, which helps to quickly feel at home. 

How did you go about learning French?

I work on an international project and therefore mainly in English which has not helped to improve my French level. I have enough French to have simple conversations required for life here and am working on improving this to become more fluent, especially now that I have a child who will be educated and grow up here. When friends and family with very little French visit, everyone seems to be accommodating and friendly. and due to the touristy summer months, most shop and hospitality staff speak English. A few words in French does go a long way though!

How did you go about finding a place to live? Was it difficult?

Finding a place to live here can be tricky at first. Rental and purchase prices are high if you want the convenience of living in the centre ville (although much lower than Paris or London). Outside town prices are much lower, albeit with a car ride to the center. There are some very beautiful properties in and around Aix with gorgeous period features, including the burnt-red hexagonal floor tiles typical of the region (called tomettes), and although outside space in terms of a garden is hard to find in the center, sunny terraces are plentiful, and there are a number of parks in the town. Parking can be hard, but many garages and parking spaces in the center can be rented on a monthly basis, which many out-of-towners also take advantage of. 

What are some of your favorite places in town?

I love Place Richelme and Place de L’Hotel de Ville for picturesque market shopping and café life, the Hotel Caumont for its art exhibitions, elegant café and gardens, the stunning hidden outdoor amphitheater Theatre de L’archeveche for summer performances and leafy park La Torse, which provides an urban oasis from city life. Aix also boasts many unique artisanal shops and boutiques, including the Rose et Marius perfumerie for highest quality fragrances and candles, patisserie Weibel and Madeleines de Christophe for exquisite sweet and savory treats, and Bastide for luxury pampering products.

Where do you recommend visitors go for an authentic taste of regional cuisine?

There are so many lovely places to eat across Provence, making it quite hard to narrow down! Authentic Provencal food is centered around strong punchy flavors, with the salty and acidic tastes of olives, garlic, sun-dried tomatoes and chèvre (goat cheese) inland and then copious amounts of seafood on the coast, including the famous Marseillese bouillabaisse (posh fisherman’s stew). There are also lots of beautifully situated restaurants with gorgeous views and surroundings. 

For the best bouillabaisse in Marseille I would recommend Chez Fonfon (recommended to me in turn by a Marseillese). Located in a picturesque little fishing port, you can enjoy a very generous portion of the dish with waiters topping up the broth as you eat as part of the spectacle. 

For stunning views while you eat, Bistrot Le 5 in Menerbes is very special, perched up high with glorious views across the Luberon valley. 

The best local olives, tapenades and chèvre can be found in the market of any village or town and are washed down perfectly with a cold glass of dry rosé. 

What are Aix’s must visit foodie shops?

Aix-en-Provence is quite the shopping hub of the area and has some very tasty fare on offer. 

If cheese is your thing, at Fromagerie Lemarie every cheese imaginable sits beautifully arranged behind glass with specialists waiting to advise and provide chunks to taste. At Le Fromagerie du Passage, the well-stocked deli is paired with a restaurant terrace above serving everything from fondue to raclette and a cheese boards of dreams. 

Calisson d’Aix are also from here and must be sampled. The pretty white and yellow candies are available across the town and make great gifts presented in pretty tins that travel well. 

What are the advantages of living in Aix-en-Provence?

Beautiful weather with sun and highlighter-blue skies as standard, picture postcard surroundings, plenty of diverse shopping, arts and activities all year round … and unlimited amounts of rosé! 

And the disadvantages?

Summers are incredibly hot in the town center, almost unbearably so in July and August, so most locals vacate the area. We view it as a great time to visit family in cooler climes or drive to the coast which is as little as 40 minutes away. 

What do you enjoy most about your life in Aix-en-Provence?

I love being outdoors so much and all year round, everything being within walking distance and eating on terraces even in winter with patio heaters and the sun still on your back. I also appreciate the slower pace of life and focus on family, the quality of food and fresh ingredients and the low cost (compared to UK) to dine out and eat really good food. 

What advice would you give to anyone considering moving to Aix-en-Provence?

Do it! Haha, seriously I would really recommend life here. Just try to learn some French before you come and join the expat communities online. Bring plenty of sunscreen for long hot summers, but also padded coats for the winter where the blue skies are coupled with howling and very cold mistral winds.

How has living in Aix-en-Provence changed you?

I use my car much less than in the UK and have joined my French neighbors in individual trips on foot to the boulangerie, butchers and wine caves rather than big supermarket shopping. I expect sunny skies all year around and find it difficult to comprehend a gray day! And in general, I would say I have slowed down just enough to appreciate life, linger over my meals, stroll the streets and savor the company of friends and loved ones – Vive la France!