'Melk met een smaakje'
And a one-bowl chocolate loaf cake you can eat every day
For those who don’t speak Dutch, the title of this post literally means ‘flavored milk,’ as in, not plain milk, but the sweet, chemical and hormone-laden stuff kids get at school cafeterias these days. The kind of hyperpalatable poison that is robbing the next generations of their health. Since the 1970s, childhood obesity has been skyrocketing in the United States, and today, it affects nearly 20% of children in the country. Though in the Netherlands that’s a little more than 4%, with the advent of ‘fat bikes’ (an aptly chosen name?) and the lack of food knowledge, I predict there’s serious trouble up ahead—unless we prioritize education on nutrition and promote healthier lifestyles from an early age.
Sadly, children are growing up with a distorted notion of what real food is. I saw it years ago when I taught at a Dutch high school and later an elementary school. To my horror, children were calling chips, energy drinks, fried food and pastries “lunch.” I also saw it within my daughter’s circle of friends while she was growing up, and a particular incident, when she was eight or nine, comes to mind.
My daughter had invited one of her school friends to play at our house, and I decided to bake something nice for them. I wanted to surprise them with a blueberry loaf cake. Kids, especially Dutch kids, usually have no qualms about telling you exactly what they think. While working as an English teacher, I heard quite a few things that took me by surprise. Everything from comments about my appearance (“Miss, why do you wear such pink lipstick?”) to downright offensive remarks about my colleagues (“The music teacher smells like fish.”)
When I entered my daughter’s room with the freshly baked cake and two cups of chamomile tea, her friend looked at the tray in my hands with a slightly nauseous look on her face and quickly announced: “Ik drink alleen melk met een smaakje.” She was NOT going to drink that tea. No way. You see, she only drank flavored milk: the sugar-laden dairy drink that smells of strawberries, or bananas, or cherries, or whatever, but doesn’t contain a lick of fruit, only ‘fruit aromas’ and a bunch of other ingredients I can’t even pronounce.
I stood at the door for a moment, gathering my thoughts and trying hard to think quickly and be fair. “Okay, but we don’t have that. Anything else I can get you?” I said, placing the tray on the dresser. Unfortunately, I couldn’t honor her request for limonade (water mixed with ‘fruit’ syrup) either. She looked disappointed, and I left the room doubting myself a little. Was I some tyrannical and uptight mother who only served healthy drinks? Should I remember the look on that little girl’s face the next time I went to the supermarket?
No! Of course not!
As parents, we all do our best, and I am not judging the mom or dad who buys sweetened drinks for their child, or the one who runs to the kitchen to make something else when they turn up their nose at the dinner in front of them. At our house, however, our daughter was raised to eat what was on her plate (even if it was just a few bites at first) and sugary drinks did not enter the house. I felt it was my responsibility to make sure she broadened her palate by learning to appreciate a variety of foods—real foods. Sure, she was allowed treats every now and then, but I don’t think she ever felt deprived. I wanted to show her the importance of balance, too. A homemade chocolate chip cookie is quite different from the store-bought kind full of mysterious ingredients.
Back in 2018, I had the chance to meet food revolutionary and culinary icon Alice Waters when she visited the Netherlands to accept the Johannes van Dam Prize* at the auditorium of the University of Amsterdam. Known as one of the most influential chefs in the United States, her advocacy for fresh, local, seasonal and organic produce has been a beacon of hope.
Since the inception of her renowned restaurant, Chez Panisse, in 1971, Waters has been a pioneer in the culinary world, emphasizing the importance of mindful eating and sustainable food systems. One of her most significant contributions was the Edible Schoolyard Project, which she initiated in 1995. By integrating gardening and cooking into school curriculums, Waters aims to educate children about the origins of food and instill in them a deeper appreciation for fresh, wholesome ingredients. This hands-on approach not only teaches practical skills but also cultivates a sense of connection to the earth and the food it yields.
The impact of Waters’ philosophy extends far beyond the walls of her restaurant or schoolyard gardens, however. It’s a call to action for society to reevaluate our food culture and prioritize health and sustainability. In a world where convenience often trumps nutrition, her message serves as a reminder that eating well is not just about satisfying hunger, but nourishing our bodies and respecting the planet.
Unfortunately, we’ve become increasingly disconnected from the sources of our food. As illustrated by the anecdote above, many children today grow up with a skewed perception of what real food is. Processed snacks and sugary beverages have become the norm, contributing to a host of health issues, including childhood obesity. But we can’t solely blame individuals for these dietary habits. The prevalence of fast food, the aggressive marketing of unhealthy products and the lack of food education all play significant roles in shaping our eating behaviors. As a society, we need to prioritize initiatives like the Edible Schoolyard Project and advocate for policies that promote access to fresh, nutritious foods for all.
It’s crucial to recognize that embracing a diet centered on real, whole foods is not about deprivation. It’s about reclaiming our health, preserving the environment and celebrating the richness of flavors and textures that nature provides.
And with that, I leave you with a long overdue recipe for a one-bowl chocolate cake so healthy, you can eat it every day. Plant-based, no sugar, no added fats, no crap.
One-bowl chocolate loaf cake
8-10 slices
Ingredients:
2 very ripe bananas, mashed
180g unsweetened applesauce
2 vegan ‘eggs’ (2 tbsps ground flaxseed mixed with 6 tbsps water)
2 tsps vanilla extract
140ml soy milk (or other plant-based milk)
250g whole-wheat flour
3 ½ tbsps quality, unsweetened cocoa powder
1 tbsp baking powder
100g walnuts, chopped
100g good-quality dark chocolate
Instructions:
Preheat the oven to 180°C and line a 28cm rectangular cake pan with parchment paper. In a large bowl, whisk the mashed bananas, applesauce, vegan ‘eggs,’ vanilla extract and soy milk. Add the whole-wheat flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, walnuts and dark chocolate. Stir, just until combined. Transfer to the cake pan and bake for approximately 40 minutes. Allow to cool on a wire rack. The cake keeps in the fridge for about five days.
*Named after the great Dutch culinary journalist Johannes van Dam (1946-2013), the prestigious award has been given by the university’s Special Collections department to those who have demonstrated extraordinary efforts in spreading the knowledge of gastronomic culture.