Norwegian Supper Club
Michelin-starred dining to kick off a visit to Stavanger
When it comes to defining the essence of a truly memorable dining experience, whether that be at a humble brasserie or a Michelin-starred restaurant, what is on my plate should not only be a direct reflection of the region, but also produced with respect. Of course, the chef’s background, character and creativity are paramount, but more than that, I’m keen to see how the menu makes use of local, seasonal and sustainable products. How are the dishes firmly anchored in the region’s terroir?
In fact, this happens to be fundamental to Norwegian chef Sven Erik Renaa’s culinary philosophy, so when an invitation to attend Norway’s Supper Club popped in my inbox, I enthusiastically accepted. The unique event would see three of Norway’s top chefs (next to Renaa in Stavanger, Heidi Bjerkan from Credo in Trondheim and Jimmy Øien from Rest in Oslo) show off their culinary prowess at exclusive venues for a select group of twelve diners each (among them, two culinary journalists). Even the location would be representative of the region’s history, architecture and natural glory.
Renaa’s location of choice was the boathouse of Utstein Kloster, Norway’s only preserved Medieval monastery, where I would also be spending the night.
Images courtesy of: Visit Norway
This protected natural heritage site, located on the island of Mosterøy and approximately half an hour to the northwest of Renaa’s eponymous two-Michelin starred restaurant in Stavanger, is also home to the Klostergarden, where Renaa sources many of his products, including the Jerusalem artichokes and broad beans featured on the menu that evening.
Image courtesy of: Klostergarden
RE-NAA** opened in 2009 and was the first restaurant outside Oslo to receive a Michelin star (2016). The second followed in 2019. Though his culinary creations and keen flavor combinations are nothing short of masterpieces, as we found out later that evening when we sampled a ten-course menu accompanied by wines selected by Norway’s distinguished sommelier, Sander Johnsson (recently awarded first place in the Nordic sommelier championship in Copenhagen), Renaa certainly hasn’t let the acclaim go to his head: “When you’re outside the capital and not in a major city like London or Paris, you’re a bit on your own. To get this recognition is kind of okay.” The stellar cooking and use of top-notch regional ingredients aside, if there is one thing that characterizes Renaa and his team, it’s a laid-back unpretentiousness. With her genuine warmth and hospitality as she commented on the food and wine, Renaa’s wife, Torill, brought a ray of sunshine to this second Norwegian Supper Club evening, which I was thrilled to be part of. Torill is also the hostess at RE-NAA** in Stavanger – a colorful city on Norway’s southwest coast, which is chock-full of excellent food addresses, as I would discover in the days that followed.