Sunday apéritif
Bite-sized joy to round off the week
Bonjour and happy Sunday!
Hosting an apéritif to round off your week? Here are three bite-sized bits of Frenchness to get the conversation going!
ART
Les Galettes, Claude Monet, 1882, Private Collection
One of Monet’s most delightful still-lifes is Les Galettes. Pictured are two golden galettes cooling down on wicker trays, in the back, a carafe of cider. Monet painted the image as payment for his stay at an auberge in Pourville in early 1882 as he did not have a cent to his name at the time. He also painted the owners, Paul Antoine Graff and his wife. French journalist and art critic Gustave Geoffrey saw the image at the auberge and described it as follows: “In this inn at Pourville, where I also stayed, I saw Monet’s portraits of the innkeeper and his wife, Père Paul in his chef’s clothes and Mère Paul in a bonnet, with a terrier in her arms. Hanging between the two was another picture, of a galette and a carafe of cider, and the still-life was as beautiful as the portraits were expressive. These three paintings hung in the linen store, among the tablecloths and napkins. Today they are seen all over the world.”
WINE
Monbazillac
Monbazillac, located in southwest France and spanning 3600 hectares, is the largest appellation of sweet wines (liquoreux in French) in the world. According to legend, these famous sweet wines were born in the 10th century by accident. The monks of Saint-Martin forgot to harvest their grapes and they became infected with a fungus called Botrytis Cinerea. What we do know is that indeed, it is this fungus which is responsible for the ‘noble rot’ (pourriture noble in French) which gives the wines their characteristic sweetness. It causes the grapes to shrivel, their sugar content to increase and their aroma to intensify. This results in a fragrant, pale yellow wine with hints of honey, stone fruits and vanilla.
The appellation counts five villages Pomport, Rouffignac, Colombier, Saint Laurent des Vignes and Monbazillac, and is in the hands of approximately one hundred dedicated winegrowers. Years ago, I had the opportunity to meet one of the appellations most respected winegrowers, Laurent de Bosredon from Château Bélingard. His Monbazillac wines are rich, unctuous and really aromatic. Highly recommended.
But how do you pair Monbazillac wines? Try them with desserts such as blanc manger, lemon meringue pie, pear crumble, strawberry soup, pumpkin pie … or my favorite (plant-based) cheese! A chilled glass of Monbazillac also makes a great apéritif.
If you’re in the area, don’t forget to stop by the Château de Monbazillac, a monumental symbol of the region dating to the middle of the 16th century. Over the centuries, this Protestant stronghold, which boats exquisite Renaissance elements, has been through much upheaval. Don’t forget to check out the cellar, where you can admire a display case with old bottles for the Dutch market, the 'Marques Hollandaises'!
FOOD
Ardèche chestnuts
Ardèche, a department in southeast France, is not only known for its lush, mountainous landscapes, swift rivers and spectacular rock formations, but it is also the country’s leading producer of sweet chestnuts. On average, chestnut trees, or ‘bread trees’ as they are also called in this part of the country, can produce about 5,000 tons of fruit per year. You will find Ardèche’s chestnuts, which were granted the A.O.C. label in 2006, in a variety of hearty dishes, chopped and scattered over salads, in sweets, pastes and even dried, milled and turned into flour. Here are just some of the delicious ways in which chestnuts have made their way into the kitchen of this exciting region.
Liqueur de châtaigne: A velvety smooth, amber-colored liqueur traditionally enjoyed as an apéritif. Mix one part liqueur de châtaigne with three parts dry white wine, Champagne or Crémant. It is especially delicious drizzled over chocolate or vanilla ice cream.
Crème de marrons: Sweetened, vanilla- flavored chestnut cream, delicious for breakfast, slathered on a thick slice of warm, buttered toast. It can also be enjoyed as a topping for crêpes or used in desserts and baked goods.
Marrons glacés: Although marrons glacés are traditionally eaten during the Christmas season, it would be a shame to only enjoy them at that time of year. The candied chestnuts are delicious on their own, in desserts or as a garnish.
Miel de châtaignier: This gourmet chestnut honey, ranging in color from pale yellow to burnished brown, has a smooth flavor with slightly bitter notes. Try it as a sweetener in hot chocolate. Use it sparingly, as it is rather fragrant.
Farine de châtaignes: Chestnut flour is a versatile ingredient that can be used in pancakes, breads, cakes and other baked goods. The flavor of chestnut flour tends to be quite sweet so bear that in mind when using it in your recipes. It has a shelf life of three to four months.
Cousina: Make sure to sample this creamy, sweet chestnut soup during your stay in the Ardèche. It is usually served hot as a starter but you can also enjoy it as a comforting lunch with plenty of crusty baguette.