Wine discoveries

Consorzio Colli Berici e Vicenza

In last Wednesday’s post, I told you that I would be taking part in a tasting with Studio Cru and Consorzio Colli Berici e Vicenza. Unfortunately, Monday started off with internet troubles, which meant I could not join the online tasting. However, I did get a chance to catch up with Studio Cru and Giovanni Ponchia, the director of Consorzio Colli Berici e Vicenza, via the recording that was sent to me later that day. I’ve tasted some impressive Italian wines with Studio Cru, and this latest batch, as always, did not disappoint.

Located in the province of Vicenza in northeastern Italy, the Colli Berici is a hilly region that mainly produces red grapes (70%), predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon (24%), Merlot (20%), Cabernet Franc and Tai Rosso (each 11%). In recent years, the Carmenère has also been increasing. The soils consist of marly limestone, calcareous conglomerates, red clays and basaltic rocks of volcanic origin, accounting for the complexity and structure that characterizes the wines. Compared to the rest of the Veneto region, which is quite rainy, the Colli Berici receives less than half of the amount of rainfall.

Known not only for wines, the region is a gastronome’s paradise with everything from olive oil to truffles. It is also home to impressive Palladian villas set amidst unspoilt landscapes.

I received six iconic wines and will be telling you about three this week. The rest (plus a recipe!) will follow in upcoming posts.

The first wine I opened was the Cicogna Cabernet Sauvignon 2019.

On the nose, the wine packs a punch with concentrated red berry aromas and spicy notes. The palate is ample with toasty nuances, vanilla and silky tannins. It went really well with a beetroot and wild mushroom wellington served with balsamic gravy and roasted root vegetables. The wine will also be a good pairing for roasts, game and bold, aged cheeses such as the regional Asiago Stravecchio. And if you eat plant-based like me and are looking for a good ‘vromage’ to pair it with, the Pebeyec by Tyk (mentioned in my last post) would certainly be my suggestion. 

The Tai Rosso 2021 was the second bottle I tried.

The Tai Rosso, an iconic grape varietal in the Colli Berici, is part of the Grenache family and probably arrived in the region in the 14th century from the Côtes du Rhône in France.

In the glass, the wine has a pale, ruby hue with a russet-orange border, a characteristic color variation of the wine. Though the nose is quite subtle, it has fresh aromas of raspberries followed by cherry, blackfruit and hints of rose. The palate has a refreshing, lively acidity which is best appreciated when the wine is served slightly chilled (14-15°C). Traditionally, this rustic wine is the ultimate pairing for the regional dish, Baccalà alla Vicentina, but I think it would also go well with fatty charcuterie that isn’t overly salty and roast guinea fowl. For the plant-based eaters among us, I would suggest a mushroom risotto (stay tuned for that recipe)!

The final wine I’d like to highlight this week is the 2019 Piovene Porto Godi Fra i Broli Merlot.

Made from three different clones of Merlot (the varietal was one of the last to arrive in the region in the late 19th century), the wine is typically aged for 12 to 15 months in barrique. Full-bodied with succulent aromas of ripe forest fruits and juicy cherries that give way to spicy notes and a whisper of mocha, the wine has plenty of freshness and complexity on the palate that merge with a rustic touch, revealing the trueVeneto style of Merlot. I paired the wine with a roasted root vegetable galette drizzled with a port wine reduction. 

I’m off to test a recipe for mushroom pâté now, but will be back soon to report on the other three wines. For now bon weekend and … tchin-tchin!