Asparagus Season

A decadent springtime vegetable

The beauty of seasonal eating is not only that produce is at its best (I think we can all agree there isn’t any charm, much less taste, to strawberries in winter), but also the delicious anticipation that comes with the arrival of fragrant peaches in summer or the first harvest of brussels sprouts when temperatures drop. And what would spring be without the decadence of asparagus?

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To me, that first asparagus meal signifies the end of winter and the welcome warmth of sunnier days. Sure, you can find bunches of asparagus at the market year-round, imported from places like Peru, but they will never please the discerning palate, for fresh they certainly are not! It’s no wonder savvy chefs, like Nicolas Decloedt from Michelin-starred restaurant Humus x Hortense in Brussels, say it’s their favorite ingredient to work with at this time of year.

In France, Alsace is one of the top asparagus producers, and 98% of the production is of the more delicate white variety. Pastor Louis Gustave Heyler introduced the vegetable to the region in 1873 after discovering it in Algeria. Convinced that the sandy soils of his native Hoerdt were similar to those of Philippeville (now Skikda) where he first tasted the vegetable, he encouraged local farmers to cultivate it—with great results. Today, 225 producers harvest roughly 2,000 tons of asparagus during the season, which starts in early April and lasts about 70 days. Two-thirds of the production takes place in Bas-Rhin and one-third in Haut-Rhin. 

I first sampled Alsace’s asparagus many years ago at La Charrue, a cozy restaurant in Hoerdt, the vegetable’s capital. The cream-colored spears were boiled until tender and served with a simple lemon-infused hollandaise. During the season, many restaurants in the area offer special asparagus menus, and there’s even an annual Fête des Asperges held in Hoerdt every May. Between all the feasting, you might want to stop by the Musée de l’Asperge to learn more about its history and cultivation. 

In the Netherlands, asparagus is a delicacy many Dutch eagerly await. If you drive into the southern provinces of North Brabant and Limburg during the extremely short asparagus season (it runs from late March/early April and ends precisely on June 24th with the feast of St. Jan), you will see them in neat beds, and almost every restaurant will serve them in one way or another. 

Though asparagus comes in three varieties (white, purple and green), more than 95% of the Dutch production is white. Compared to green asparagus, white ones have a milder, more refined flavor, and they are one of the most expensive vegetable in the country.

Asparagus is best when locally harvested and consumed soon after purchase. To determine freshness, make sure the tips are smooth and the stalks squeak when rubbed together. White asparagus can be used in soups and savory tarts (they make a lovely addition to a classic tarte flambée) and can even be thinly sliced and eaten raw in a salad. The green spears are best roasted, drizzled with olive oil, sprinkled with fleur de sel and finished with a squeeze of lemon.

One of the classic ways to eat white asparagus is with ham, a soft-boiled egg and a drizzle of melted butter. Since I started eating plant-based, I now serve them with quality vegan ‘egg’ salad, vegan ‘ham,’ a drizzle of plant-based butter and steamed new potatoes.

In the following recipe, I decided to try something a little different. White asparagus are quickly pan-fried and then baked with thick béchamel sauce flavored with fines herbes. The result is rich and decadent. You won’t need much more than steamed potatoes, a green salad with a mustardy vinaigrette and a bottle of wine. 

WINE TIP
Whether you choose green or white, asparagus pairs well with the subtle floral aromas of a crisp Muscat d’Alsace. The wine’s lively acidity beautifully complements the vegetable’s slightly bitter notes. 

Looking for more spring inspiration? Check out my April food and drinks column for Reader’s Digest UK.

Did you know that you can now find my recipes on the Vegan Academy? I am thrilled to be a recipe developer and food writer for one of the country’s vegan chefs, Joris Schildknecht.

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Gratin d’asperges with fines herbes
Serves 2

NOTE: Before cooking, white asparagus must be thinly peeled (starting under the tips) and the woody ends (approx. 2 cm) removed.

Ingredients:

• 500g white asparagus (peeled and woody ends removed)

• 45g  (plant-based) butter 

• 1 garlic clove, finely sliced 

• 30g all-purpose flour

• 100 ml hot, strong vegetable stock

• 320 ml hot (soy) milk 

• 2 tsps Dijon mustard

• 1 tsp dried tarragon

• 1 ½ tsps dried chervil

• 2 tsps fresh parsley, finely chopped

• 2 tsps fresh chives, finely chopped 

• 2 tbsps grated (plant-based) cheese

• Sea salt & freshly cracked pepper

Instructions:
Preheat the oven to 200°C and butter a 27-cm oval dish. Melt 15g of the butter in a frying pan and sauté the asparagus for 5 minutes over a medium-high heat. Place the asparagus on a plate. Reduce the heat, and in the same pan, melt the rest of the butter (there will still be some left in the pan) and sauté the garlic for 1 minute. Add the flour and cook while whisking for 1 minute. Slowly pour in the stock, followed by the milk, as you whisk. The mixture will thicken into a béchamel sauce. Remove from the heat and stir in the mustard, tarragon, chervil, parsley, chives, salt and pepper. Spread half of the béchamel over the dish, top with the asparagus, and finish with the rest of the béchamel. Scatter with the cheese and bake for 25 minutes, until golden and bubbling. Serve with steamed new potatoes and a green salad.