Kouglof

Emblem of the Alsace (PLUS RECIPE)

As a Francophile, I have adopted many French (eating) habits over the years. I mostly drink coffee out of an antique bowl, my meals are always served with a basket of bread and a glass of wine, and I usually end the working day with a delicious apéro.

I’ve also made typical French culinary traditions, especially during the holidays, my own. December is a month full of festive bakes such as the Bûche de Noël to round off Christmas dinner or a thick slice of kouglof, a specialty from Alsace, for Christmas breakfast… or any time, really. I must say I haven’t made a kouglof this month, but I thought I’d tell you about it before the year’s end.

The history of the kouglof (also spelled ‘kougelhopf,’ ‘kugelhof,’ ‘kugelopf,’ ‘kugelhopf’ and ‘gugelhupf’) remains a mystery. Legend has it that one of the Three Kings left his lavishly decorated turban next to Baby Jesus’ manger on Christmas Eve. A baker from Strasbourg found it and decided to use it as a baking tin. A bit far-fetched, but a sweet story to tell children at the breakfast table.

The most probable story is that the original recipe was made in Poland during the Middle Ages, but in the 18th century the cake (actually more of a bread) was brought to France. And for that we can thank the Polish Marie Leszczyńska, who became the wife of Louis XV in 1725.

When she moved to Versailles, she took Nicolas Stohrer with her, the French pastry chef who had been employed by her father, Stanislaw. Stanislaw lived in Wissembourg in Alsace and later moved to the Château de Chambord in the Loire Valley.

Five years later, in 1730, Stohrer opened his pâtisserie on Rue Montorgueil in Paris, today not only the oldest pâtisserie in the city but also one of the most famous. However, it was Marie-Antoinette, wife of Louis XVI, who made the kouglof hip and’ happening somewhere around 1770.

Also worth mentioning: The baba au rhum, a famous French dessert, is said to have been invented by Stohrer when Stanislaw found the kouglof he made a bit too dry. The solution? Stohrer drenched it in rum.

The recipe for an authentic kouglof consists of a brioche-like dough made with flour, yeast, milk, butter, eggs, sugar, rum-soaked raisins and whole almonds. Kouglof is also eaten on other special occasions such as birthdays, baptisms and weddings or simply for le goûter (a snack taken in the afternoon, especially by children). There are even savory recipes for the apéro made with ingredients such as smoked walnuts, cheese and onions. Walk into any bakery in Alsace and you’ll find lots of tasty variations.

Kouglof is baked in an earthenware mold, preferably one made with Soufflenheim or Betschdorf clay, the towns where they have been handcrafted and painted since the mid-18th century. They come in different sizes and beautiful, bright colors with graceful patterns. They are so decorative that you can even hang them on the wall.

It’s not just their beauty that makes them so special, but the fact that the material provides the perfect cuisson: with a metal baking pan, the cake may brown too much before the inside is fully cooked. It’s important to bake the mold before you use it for the first time. This is done by generously greasing it with butter or any other fat and baking it at 100°C for 15 minutes. Never wash the baking mold with soap and water, but clean it thoroughly with a damp cloth.

If you visit Alsace, a good address to remember is Poterie Beck on 42 Route de Bischwiller in Soufflenheim. You can buy the baking molds there and see how they’re made.

***RECIPE FOR PAID SUBSCRIBERS***

KOUGLOF WITH CRANBERRIES, CANDIED ORANGE & LEMON ZEST
Though kouglof is traditionally made with dried raisins soaked in rum, I’ve always made mine with dried cranberries, candied orange peel and lemon zest. One of the most important things to remember when making the cake is to butter your mold really well. I can’t stress this enough. It’s something grannies in the Alsace will be very keen to tell you! That, and to bake the cake at a low temperature. Some variations have almonds, but I usually leave them out and instead use ground almonds in the batter.

Please note that this recipe is not plant-based. I will post a new plant-based version next year. The kouglof is delicious with a glass of Crémant d’Alsace and can be eaten toasted when stale or used to make bread pudding and French toast.