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France's strawberry fields

Some culinary experiences are akin to falling in love, and I must admit to getting butterflies in my stomach as I watched Didier Casaguana, Michelin-starred chef at Les Fresques in Monestier, prepare one of his signature dishes for me: a vibrant tartare of Gariguette strawberries. The marriage of flavors and textures was superb, but what captivated me most was the Gariguette. With their scarlet red color, these jewel-like strawberries are almost too pretty to eat, turning dishes into edible works of art. The real magic, however, happens when you actually savor them. After having my fair share of deceptively beautiful strawberries that tasted like water, I was instantly smitten by the Gariguette. 

One of the most popular strawberries in France, Gariguettes have an exceptionally sweet aroma with slightly acidic notes and a succulent bite. They are cultivated in Lot-et-Garonne (the country’s leading strawberry producer) along with the Ciflorette and the Charlotte. All three varieties were granted Label Rouge certification in 2009. 

Though strawberries have been grown in this fertile region since at least the 15th century, the story of the Gariguette began in 1976 when it was invented in Avignon by a research team led by agricultural engineer Georgette Risser. Their mission was to create a hardy strawberry that was resistant to disease, could withstand transport and, of course, would be fragrant and delicious. It wasn’t until the late 1980s, though, that Gariguettes would gain popularity. At a time when inferior strawberries were being imported from Spain and Italy, this early, indigenous variety caught the eye (and tempted the nose!) of choosy consumers who did not mind paying more for better quality. In the 90s, producers in Lot-et-Garonne took an interest in the fruit, and today, Gariguettes account for 45% of the department’s total strawberry production.

Best enjoyed from the middle of March until the end of June, Gariguettes are wonderful eaten fresh (they don’t survive a market stroll with me!), but you can also serve them with cream. Gariguettes lend themselves to a variety of colorful preparations. You can purée them into a silky coulis to spoon over yogurt, they are practically made for glistening tarts, and you can even marinate them in a bright Beaujolais to make a refreshing soup. Simply heat the wine with a little sugar and vanilla or cinnamon. Perhaps add a shot of balsamic vinegar or a dash of lime zest. Cool, add the strawberries and serve well chilled, in attractive wine glasses and with a sprig of fresh mint.

RECIPE
Strawberry lavender jam

My favorite strawberry jam recipe reminds me of France and is my own little tribute to strawberry season. A friend once said that it “tasted like Provence.” What a delightful compliment! You’ll love the jam on a piece of toasted baguette and washed down with a nice bowl of French-pressed coffee. 

Note: Make sure to use lavender that is safe for consumption!

Sterilize your jars by boiling them.

Makes approx. 500ml

Ingredients:
600g strawberries, washed and hulled

250g gelling sugar

1 ½ tbsp dried lavender (suitable for cooking)

Juice of ½ a small lemon

Instructions:
Cut the strawberries in half and place them together with the sugar and the lavender in a stainless steel pan. Mash them a little with a potato masher, but make sure you leave some nice chunks. Add the lemon juice, stir and quickly bring everything to the boil. Lower the heat and allow the jam to cook for approx. 30 minutes, stirring frequently. You’ll want the jam to bubble away nicely, but make sure that the heat isn’t too high. To check if the jam is ready, drop a teaspoonful onto a cold saucer. The jam should be thick and immediately start to set. Transfer the jam to your sterilized jar and let it cool before refrigerating.